Senior R&D Engineer, Luye Technology Group Shanghai Lurui Biotechnology Co., Ltd.
At present, it is mainly engaged in basic and formula development of daily chemicals. A total of 6 articles have been published, 7 patents have been applied for, and 1 patent has been granted. In 2020, won the honorary title of "Light Industry Craftsman" in Shanghai.
Food ingredients determine the quality of food, just as cosmetic raw materials determine the quality of cosmetics, especially for special cosmetics, raw materials are particularly important in highlighting product safety, stability, efficacy, etc. In recent years, with the efforts of many colleagues in the industry, some new progress has been made in specialty cosmetic raw materials. Now, it has entered the season when consumers have the strongest sunscreen effect on cosmetics - summer. The main raw material in sunscreen cosmetics - sunscreen agent, has once again become the focus of consumers' attention.
What new opportunities will there be for sunscreen cosmetics in 2021? What new trends will emerge in the market? This article focuses on an overview of sunscreens, in order to provide rough guidelines for the market and research and development from the perspective of raw materials.
Expansion of the concept and scope of sun protection
With the in-depth research on skin damage caused by light, people gradually realize that not only ultraviolet rays (UVA/UVB) can damage human skin, but also high-energy blue light (HEV) and infrared (IR) can cause damage to human skin. The corresponding full-band sunscreen concept has also expanded its scope: from the original ultraviolet (UVA/UVB) protection, to the current ultraviolet (UVA/UVB), high-energy blue light (HEV), infrared (IR) protection; It has developed to the protection of sunlight, electronic products (computers, mobile phones), and artificial light sources in modern times, that is, the protection objects have expanded and changed.
Natural active substances become research hotspots
Looking for functional ingredients that can play a sunscreen effect from natural substances; natural active substances that can stabilize existing sunscreen agents; One of the directions, its advantage is that it is friendly to the human body and the environment. The above three active substances work in different mechanisms. The natural extracts that directly absorb ultraviolet rays contain benzene rings or conjugated structures, so they can directly absorb ultraviolet rays. For example: Karanja Oil, Givaudan launched, has the effect of absorbing ultraviolet rays because of its unique structure; lignin contains functional groups such as aryl groups, phenolic hydroxyl groups, ketone groups and carboxyl groups, which have the ability to absorb ultraviolet rays. Features. Although the active substances for skin repair after sun exposure cannot directly absorb and reflect ultraviolet rays, they generally reduce the production of human skin erythema and inflammatory factors through the reaction pathway of the skin after sun exposure. For example, Zhang Hao has shown through research that aloe vera gel can effectively reduce the secretion of inflammatory cytokines IL-1α and IL-8 in keratinocytes after UVB irradiation. By adding the above functional substances, the use of sunscreens can be reduced, which not only saves costs and increases the safety of the formula, but also makes the formula easier to formulate, reduces the oiliness of the formula, and can improve the safety, efficacy, sensory and cost saving. There are great comprehensive benefits. More and more sunscreen products are now incorporating natural actives with the above effects to optimize the performance of the formulation.
Technology development and application tend to mature
Encapsulated chemical sunscreen
The encapsulated chemical sunscreen refers to the encapsulation of the chemical sunscreen by other substances. It has the following four advantages: 1. The stability of the chemical sunscreen is greatly improved, thereby improving the sunscreen efficiency of the sunscreen; 2. The hydrophilicity and hydrophobicity of the wall material determines the dispersion performance of the sunscreen, making the chemical sunscreen easier to disperse evenly In the formula, we can encapsulate the chemical sunscreen in the hydrophilic outer wall material, which can disperse the chemical sunscreen in water; 3. The chemical sunscreen does not directly contact the skin through the package, which can reduce the number of small molecules The transdermal absorption of sunscreen and sunscreen products after photolysis can better protect human skin; 4. By finding suitable wall materials, a better skin feel can be achieved.
When designing this type of sunscreen, the technical points are comprehensively considered: the safety, efficacy and stability of the sunscreen, so as to obtain an excellent encapsulated sunscreen. Yu Mingying prepared composite sunscreen microspheres. The microspheres were loaded with TiO2 and avobenzone-loaded composite microspheres, which not only protected the unstable avobenzone from light, but also improved the whitening effect of physical sunscreens. question. The following are Merck's silica-wrapped series, Sunjin's PMMA-wrapped series, and TAGRA's cellulose-wrapped series.
Table 1: Encapsulated sunscreens
|Water, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Silica, Polyvinylpyrrolidone, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Disodium EDTA, Butyloxymethyl
|Water, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Silica, Polyvinylpyrrolidone, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butyl Hydroxytoluene
|Water, Octreline, Sorbitol, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Silica, Polyvinylpyrrolidone, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Disodium EDTA
|Water, Octreline, Sorbitol, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Silica, Polyvinylpyrrolidone, Phenoxyethanol
|70% PMMA, 30% Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
|70% PMMA, 30% bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine
|70% PMMA, 30% ethylhexyl triazinone
|55% PMMA, 30% butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, 15% ethylhexyltriazinone
|55% PMMA, 30% Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, 15% MBC
|THERE IS LOVE
|Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, octocrylene, cellulose polymer
|THERE IS LOVE
|Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Cellulose Polymer
|THERE IS LOVE
|Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Cellulose Polymer
|THERE IS LOVE
|Homosalate, cellulose polymer
Surface modification and microstructure control of physical sunscreens
Although there are only two kinds of physical sunscreens prescribed by the state, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, through surface modification and microstructure control, there are far more types of physical sunscreens than chemical sunscreens. When engineers use physical sunscreens, one of the technical difficulties is the dispersion of physical sunscreens, which not only affects the stability and uniformity of the formulation, but also affects its efficacy. How to better disperse the physical sunscreen agent in the oil phase and the water phase through modification is one of the important directions for the development of sunscreen agents. To obtain higher SPF and PA values, in addition to uniform dispersion, the particle size distribution of physical sunscreens should also be precisely controlled, and the optimal particle size distribution and shape control should be selected. Under certain conditions, improve the sun protection efficiency and skin feel of the sunscreen agent. At the same time, when developing physical sunscreens, the whitening problem and safety issues after the use of physical sunscreens should be taken into account.
Formulation of sunscreen compositions
When using sunscreens, the compatibility of sunscreens and the solubility of chemical sunscreens need to be considered. Therefore, only engineers who have been engaged in the development of sunscreen products for a long time can better formulate sunscreen products that are safe, stable and have good skin feel. In order to make it easier for engineers to formulate sunscreen formulations, one or more of physical sunscreens, chemical sunscreens, and oils can be formulated together and sold as semi-finished products. Although this avoids the lack of engineers' experience, it also limits them. flexibility in formulation. Example: Naissen Sunscreen UMC-503, by combining water, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, benzophenone-3, octocrylene, soy lecithin , propylene glycol, polyglyceryl ether-10, microcrystalline cellulose optimized ratio, compound together, more convenient for formulation engineer's work. Sean Spectrum OA sunscreen by combining water, octyl methoxycinnamate, hexyl diethylaminohydroxybenzoate, ethylhexyl triazinone, glyceryl stearate, steareth-21 , Steareth-2, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Phenoxyethanol, and Methylparaben are compounded for stable, full-band UV protection. Ji Jinjin prepared by mixing the chemical sunscreen agent methylene dibenzotriazole tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT) with the physical sunscreen agent TiO2. The particle size of MBBT can be significantly reduced, thereby improving the dispersion stability and UV shielding performance of MBBT, and a sunscreen dispersion slurry with excellent performance is obtained.
Institutionalization and strictness of the efficacy evaluation system of sunscreen products
Only after passing the efficacy test can the listing claim be supported
The efficacy test of sunscreen products mainly includes in vitro method and in vivo method. The in vitro method is simple, convenient and cost-saving, and is often used in the preliminary screening of sunscreen formulations. Corresponding standard methods are: international standard "ISO 24443:2012 Determination of sunscreen UVA photoprotection in vitro"; EU COLIPA guide UVA protection in vitro determination method "Method for in vitro determination of UVA protection"; my country's entry-exit inspection and quarantine industry standard "Sunscreen UVA protection". In Vitro Determination Method of UVA Protection Effect of Cosmetics"; Instrumental Determination Method of Cosmetics Anti-UVA Ability in my country's "Cosmetics Safety Technical Specifications". The instruments used in the in vitro method are: SPF 290AS, Cary 300, UV2000S, UVAPF IN VITRO Analyzer.
The human body method has the characteristics of long cycle and high cost. my country's "Cosmetic Safety Technical Specifications" stipulates the human body method test method for the SPF value and PA value of sunscreen products to support the efficacy claims of sunscreen products.
Efficacy evaluation methods of anti-blue light and anti-infrared cosmetics tend to be perfect
With the development of dermatology, the effects of blue light and infrared on the skin have gradually become clear. Research in this field is a hot topic in current dermatological research, followed by the emergence of a variety of anti-blue light cosmetic raw materials in the market. In order to explain the efficacy of anti-blue light products more scientifically, the efficacy evaluation method for anti-blue light of cosmetics has also been introduced: "GB/T 38120-2019 Technical Requirements for Light Health and Light Safety Application of Blue Light Protective Films" ) Light Safety Test Method specifies the test method for anti-blue light cosmetics. In 2020, the "Light Year 2020 International Forum on Skin Photobiology" held by China Beauty Expo (CBE) in Shanghai invited experts from home and abroad to publish the latest research on blue light and cosmetics, on the harm of blue light to the skin, anti-blue light raw materials The scientific research of anti-blue light cosmetics, the release of new raw materials for anti-blue light cosmetics, and the evaluation of the efficacy of anti-blue light for cosmetics have been exchanged, which has aroused great repercussions in the industry.
In addition to anti-blue light products, more and more anti-infrared cosmetics are emerging in the market. How to evaluate the efficacy of anti-infrared cosmetics? There are no current methods, standards and supervision in the cosmetics industry, but more and more raw material suppliers in the industry are developing anti-infrared cosmetics. Infrared method, Helioscreen Laboratories has developed an in vitro test method to test products claimed to have infrared protection.